ASTURIAS - Spain's Green Northern Coast

Pat Keenan reports on a visit to
Spain's green northern coast

Asturias- the 'Ireland' of Spain

Photos: Pat Keenan

An adaptation (with extra material and photos) of an article
that appeared in Senior Times magazine March - April 1917 issue.

On the drive from Seve Ballesteros-Santander Airport (the famous golfer was a local) many remarked on how much this green and pleasant Spain had a likeness to Ireland, not the parched and sunny Spain that thousands expect, know and love. It may remind you of Ireland, but make no mistake, this is truly Spanish, and however unlike the rest of Spain it may be, it is something new to love about this country. This northern coast, called the Costa Verde (the Green Coast), is watered regularly by Atlantic rains. The climate however, is still sunnier and warmer than Ireland. We were visiting Asturias, wedged between Galicia to the west, Cantabria to the east, the cantankerous Bay of Biscay to the north and the snow capped Picos de Europa Mountains to the south.

Universidad Laboral de Gijón Photo: Pat Keenan

That mountain range almost always features as the backdrop for the entire coast and has been an influence on the region throughout history. The Romans and others arrived but just about - none found these mountainous territory easy to cross. A local told me "Asturias is Spain," the rest he said "was conquered." He was referring to the Moors who overran Spain in the 8th century but this northern coast never really became part of Islamic Spain. It became a refuge for Christians nobles and eventually harbored the emerging impetus for the Reconquista (Reconquest from the Moors). The Celts arrived much earlier during the Bronze age but they had the good sense to arrive from the Atlantic side and many Celtic cultural influences exist to this day.

Cider: how they pour and drink it

While there is always a plentiful supply to good Spanish wine, it doesn't come from here, for like Ireland the climate is not suited to growing grapes. But it sure is suited to growing apples, over 200 varieties and they make sierra (cider) and lots of it. At a sideria (cider bar) in the tiny village of Pancar near the the city of Llanes we discovered how they pour it and drink it - in a marvelous and fun way.

When I was a young and novice Irish drinker, it was so engrained in me that - the glass should be filled to the brim, a small head was allowed, never spill any, and no matter how bloated you might feel, you must finish the drink, never leave any in the glass. So when they say, Asturias is 'so like Ireland', it's not when it comes to drinking.

Their method of serving cider is called escanciar. Essentially it is a way of aerating the cider by : it from a bottle held high over the head into a tilted wide-mouthed glass held as low as possible. The pourer looks at neither glass nor bottle but straight ahead, poker faced. There are splashes, a few misses and always a wet floor. Only a small amount of the now aerated cider reaches the glass, maybe an inch or two. Traditionally it must be drank immediately, fired back shot-style, it should never be allowed to stand and so, what remains is simply chucked on the floor. Someone explained that it was one of those Celtic traditions based on the belief that what we receive from the earth should return to the earth. The posher siderias and restaurants will have a bucket. It's great fun and if they let you, try a pour. Some of mine actually reached the glass.

Dedicated to St.Patrick and lit up in green

Within staggering distance of our Pancar sideria there is a chapel dedicated to St.Patrick and every March it is lit up in green. Uphill from the chapel there is a 'holy cave', of course, a legend and it is said to be place of meditation and inspiration for the saint. It seems that one Gaspar de la Vega left Asturias, made a fortune in New York, returned in 1922 and built the chapel in honour of Saint Patrick.

St.Patrick's cave, Pancar

St.Patrick's altar at church in Pancar

St. Patrick's church in Pancar

In Llanes the Santa Maria Basilica is also green-lit for St. Patrick's Day. Llanes (pronounced to my ear as 'yan-nais'), is a traditional working fishing port surrounded on all sides by some really spectacular coastal scenery, enjoyable cliff walks, 32 white sand beaches, one nudist, all set against the Sierra del Cuera mountains - capped with snow when we visited. Llanes is a port town with a history. Many sailed from here to the Americas and some returned with fortunes, some never returned, lost to colonial wars and conflict history. There is a plaque here to commemorates the men and their three ships, the Santa Ana, the San Nicolas and the Santelmo, that sailed from here to join the ill fated Spanish Armada in 1588. In more recent times, from September 6 to 22 in 1937 during the Spanish Civil War, the mountain regions here were embroiled in fierce fighting that became known as the Battle of El Mazuco when 5,000 Republicans held off 33,000 Nationalists and the German backed Spanish airforce in an epic fight of resistance.

Cliff walk at Llanes

Llanes

In front of the Cathedral, strangely,
a statue representing hypocrisy and vulgarity

Oviedo the capital city is compact and exudes a mix of history, sculpture and… cheese. A walk around the centre will take in the Pre-Romanesque shrine of San Julián de los Prados and the Cathedral of San Salvador, in front which standing in the square is a statue, strangely representing hypocrisy and vulgarity. It's of a lady and it is named 'La Regenta' after the novel of that name by the Spanish author Clarín.

'La Regenta'Cathedral_ofSan Salvador.

Woody Alan strolls along Oviedo calle

I was surprised to see Woody Alan stride down the Calle de las Milicias Nacionales. Woody, it appears, developed a particular affection for Oviedo when filming 'Vicky Cristina Barcelona' here in 2008. The city returned the affection with a life-size statue. The city has a ever multiplying collection of statues, almost as many as there are cheeses. I have never seen such a quantity, and quality too. Try Afuega'l Pitu, Cabrales, Gamoneu and Los Beyos, these are probably the best.

The pre Romanesque Santa María del Naranco Church overlooking Oviedo

Just less than 2 miles from Oviedo is the pre Romanesque Santa María del Naranco Church (awarded a World Heritage designation by the UNESCO). It was built on the slope of Mount Naranco in the 9th century as the palace for King Ramiro I. It appears to have many functions, a royal residence, a recreational palace, but also a church. It may also have had a military role in a turbulent time when Christian Asturias faced attacks from both Vikings and Moors. For us it affords magnificent views across Oviedo.

Gijón ((pronounced 'hee-hon') is Asturia's largest and most industrialised city. We visited the enormous Universidad Laboral de Gijón a massive spread of architecture built during the times of Franco's dictatorship and considered to be the biggest building in Spain. Now it is part of the University of Oviedo and schools of drama and music. Climb up nearly 200 ft to the clock tower for for a sweeping view of Gijón. or use the lift as I did. There is also the Atlantic Botanic Gardens, a Roman Museum and Baths, a cliff top parkland called Bateria alta de Santa Catalina, and if you like fish there are over 4,000 of them at the large Aquarium on Poniente Beach.

One of the best panoramic views on this coast
Lastres

On the way back along the coast to the airport we stopped at the lovely red roofed fishing village of Lastres. Take some time to climb up the steps from the harbor to a one of the best panoramic views on this coast. We stopped foe a while at Ribadesella, once the favorite summer haunt of a young journalist Letizia Ortiz Rocasolano, long before she met and married Prince Felipe. She is now Queen of Spain as the wife of King Felipe VI. A walking town, a long waterside, a fishing harbour and two main shopping streets, the Gran Vía de Agustin Argüelles, and CalleComercio. There is a vibrant Casco Antiguo (Old Town), with shops, bars restaurants and Ribadesella’s church, The Iglesia Parroquial de Santa María Magdalena (Parish Church of St.Mary Magdalene) well worth a visit because it is post Spanish Civil War and displays new and modern murals with a distinctly new religious interpretation on conflict and war.

Ribadesella

In order to avoid airline food we decided to have lunch sitting outside the Sideria La Marina, overlooking wide estuary of the Sella River, eating tapas and just one last long pour from a bottle of cider, held high.

Sideria La Marina, Plaza Sta. Ana, 19, 33560 Ribadesella

Gettiing There

Ryanair fly direct Dublin - Santander (about 2 hours from Oviedo by road or rail)

Aer Lingus fly direct Dublin - Bilbao. www.aerlingus.ie (Bilbao to Oviedo takes about 3 hours by road)

Where to Stay

Hotel Hacienda Don Juan is set on an apple farm dating to the late 19th century,10 minutes walk to Playa del Sablón beach and 5 km from the golf links: Club de Golf La Cuesta de Llanes.

Hotel Hacienda Don Juan, Calle Concepción, 5, 33500 Llanes www.haciendadedonjuan.com/

Hotel Abba Playa

Where to Eat
Pat Keenan at LaSalgar Michelin star restaurant with Chef Esther Manzano

There are 8 Michelin Starred Restaurants in Asturias and we sampled two, my favourite was La Salgar, managed by Chef Esther Manzano, at Muséu del Pueblu d´Asturies, Paseo Dr. Fleming, 33203 Gijón, (www.lasalgar.es/)
and Auga, at Marina of Gijón, (www.restauranteauga.com/en/).
We also got excellent food at these restaurants:

Restaurant-Cider Bar La Finca, Calle Gascona 4, 33001, Oviedo, www.sidrerialafinca.es

Sideria La Marina, Plaza Sta. Ana, 19, 33560 Ribadesella

Information

Spanish Tourist Office Ireland at www.spain.info/en_IE/

Tel.:+353 016350200

Asturias website: www.infoasturias.com

www.turismoasturias.es

Senior Times article: