Cantabria - an alternative Spain
Pat Keenan takes us on
a 10 stop tour of the essential Cantabria
Photos: Pat Keenan
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a 10 stop tour of the essential Cantabria
Photos: Pat Keenan
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| Map: HOLIDAYezine |
The rain in Spain falls mainly.... in the north west, from Galicia to Asturias, Cantabria and to the Basque Country and Catalonia. That's why the area is known as España Verde, Green Spain. It turns to snow high up on the Picos de Europa Mountains and below it nurtures lush verdant valleys, and in the process we have a different and alternative Spain.
We arrived from Dublin direct into Santander Airport and from there we set off to find the essence of Cantabria. Renfe, the national rail carrier is largely an inter-city affair, so not really much help. The local Feve train will take you from Santander along the coast to Galicia. But we wanted to explore the heart of Cantabria, the Picos mountains and valleys, wildlife parks, caves and villages, unchanged by time. The hardy could walk, if in the possession of a stout pair of legs and lots of time or they could cycle. But ideally, hire a car at the airport. (see Travel File below)
We arrived from Dublin direct into Santander Airport and from there we set off to find the essence of Cantabria. Renfe, the national rail carrier is largely an inter-city affair, so not really much help. The local Feve train will take you from Santander along the coast to Galicia. But we wanted to explore the heart of Cantabria, the Picos mountains and valleys, wildlife parks, caves and villages, unchanged by time. The hardy could walk, if in the possession of a stout pair of legs and lots of time or they could cycle. But ideally, hire a car at the airport. (see Travel File below)
1 Santander Airport
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) fly direct from Dublin to Santander Airport, just 5km from the city of Santander and there is a bus every 30 minutes.
2 The Altamira Caves
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| Museo de Altamira leaflet guide |
The cave's drawings were discovered in 1879 by eight year-old María Sanz de Sautuola when she pointed them out to her amateur archaeologist father Marcelino. On entering the cave it immediately struck me that they looked so modern and later when I came across the masks I immediately thought - Picasso.
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| María Sanz de Sautuola |
Access to the cave of Altamira, since 2002, has been restricted to a small number conservationists and the general public is no longer admitted. Scientific experts became aware that exposure to carbon dioxide in the breath of the large number of visitors was endangering the Palaeolithic cave paintings. The cave you will visit is a replica cave, albeit an excellent full scale one, attached to the museum. (http://en.museodealtamira.mcu.es)
3 Santillana del Mar
Santillana del Mar is known as the town of three lies. Well yes and no, 'del Mar' - yes, the sea is not that close, so a lie, 'illana' - meaning flat, and it is far from flat, so lie 2. The third lie is said to be 'Santa' because the town has no saint. But wait, what about Saint Juliana, the local patron, whose bones are kept in La Colegiata, the Romanesque 12th-century church, at the very centre of town, so let's say the jury is out on that.
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| Santillana del Mar |
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| Santillana del Mar shops: bags of them |
But, for all that, it is an enchanting town of narrow cobbled streets , wide squares, the medieval homes of noblemen and their grand coats of arms. The town is almost entirely pedestrianized. I say almost because some locals are permitted to use their cars. So if you don't altogether trust Spanish drivers, this is the town for you.
For those with a strong stomach there is also a Museo de la Tortura (the Museum of the Inquisition), containing their instruments of torture. You won't miss it - you'll easily spot the skeleton hanging in a cage over a garden wall.
4 Cabárceno Nature Park
The brown bears in natural park of Cabárceno made me think of Myles na gCopaleen's notion that men and their bicycles eventually merge. The park, 15 kilometres (9.3 mi) from Santander, is a reclaimed 750 hectares (1,900 acres) of open pit iron mining, dating way back to Roman times and, while now all lushly green, the iron gives the rocks and soil a rusty brown hue. The brown bears have acquired the same rusty colour.
Ahead of us another 4X4 dispensed large chunks of meat and full length baguettes out the back through well armored shoot and the bears came down the hills in what can only be described as a stampede. They grab, snarl, run, chase, hide, fight. Survival of the biggest and fittest. And speaking of survival, during all this commotion, one pair brazenly made love.
5 Fuente Dé
Part of the joy of traveling around Cantabria is, just about everything is easy reach. The cities, the sea and beaches, places of culture and pilgrimage, lush green countryside, and then, in the Picos de Europa National Park, is one of the most amazing and spectacular mountain wildernesses in Europe.
Just for a sampler we took the Fuente De, the third-largest cable-car system in the world to the giddy heights of the viewing point, 1,850m (6,000 ft.) above sea level and from there, staying power and fitness allowing, you can climb (some would call it a steep walk) further up the rocky mountainside with small patches of snow, even in summer. In winter this would be fully snow covered. Don't be put off by the more experienced as they literally run past. Every year they hold what's known as vertical racing or mountain running. These runs range from 5 to 30 kilometres from ground zero to 100 and 3000 metros.
But even by just using the cable car to the viewing point will afford a mountaineer experience and then dare you step out on the see through mesh floor of the viewing platform and admire the view below, 1,850m under your feet, a sweeping view through the valley. Ignore the calls of "don't look down"
6 Liébana
Part of the joy of traveling around Cantabria is, just about everything is easy reach. The cities, the sea and beaches, places of culture and pilgrimage, lush green countryside, and then, in the Picos de Europa National Park, is one of the most amazing and spectacular mountain wildernesses in Europe.
Just for a sampler we took the Fuente De, the third-largest cable-car system in the world to the giddy heights of the viewing point, 1,850m (6,000 ft.) above sea level and from there, staying power and fitness allowing, you can climb (some would call it a steep walk) further up the rocky mountainside with small patches of snow, even in summer. In winter this would be fully snow covered. Don't be put off by the more experienced as they literally run past. Every year they hold what's known as vertical racing or mountain running. These runs range from 5 to 30 kilometres from ground zero to 100 and 3000 metros.
But even by just using the cable car to the viewing point will afford a mountaineer experience and then dare you step out on the see through mesh floor of the viewing platform and admire the view below, 1,850m under your feet, a sweeping view through the valley. Ignore the calls of "don't look down"
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| Driving high on the Picos de Europa: and yes, that's snow |
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| Pan Con Tomate at La Casona de Cosgaya, Liébana |
7 Mogrovejo
We visited an old school at Mogrovejo, a small village nestled against a scenic mountain backdrop of the Picos de Europa range.
Almost Alpine looking, the village is made up of quaint red roofed stone brick houses with distinct ironwork and wood balconies, and looks like it has never changed since it was built between the 16th and18th centuries. The small Church of Our Lady of the Assumption has all the appearances of an indianos building. Indianos is a term used for the thousands of Spaniards who emigrated to the American colonies and the many who made fortunes returned to build schools, churches in their villages back home, usually in a style picked up on their travels.
Overlooking the town, the tower of Pedro Ruiz de Mogrovejo, currently empty inside, is thought to date from the late 13th century.
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| The old school museum at Mogrovejo |
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| Mogrovejo: the small church |
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| Relic from Calvary cross |
8 Santo Toribio
The Monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana in the Cantabrian Mountains is one of the five place (the others are Rome, Jerusalem, Santiago de Compostela Caravaca de la Cruz) that Roman Catholics believe have 'the privilege of perpetual indulgences'.
A tabernacle displays what is believed to be the largest piece of wood from the cross upon which Christ was crucified. It is the left-hand (literally) part of the horizontal beam complete with nail hole. Originally unearthed in Jerusalem, it was taken here in the fifth century.
In the sixteenth century it was forged into a cross itself and inserted into a glass fronted silver gilted ornate case, the base of which has an opening so that pilgrims, on their way to Santiago de Compostela, could kiss the exposed wood.
The Forestry Research Institute in Madrid, examined a sample of the relic in 1958 found it to be Mediterranean Cypress wood, common to Palestine and that it might date older than 2,000 years. The last time I was here in 2012, a very helpful Fannciscan monk kindly removed the revered cross from the altar showcase for us to examine up close.
A tabernacle displays what is believed to be the largest piece of wood from the cross upon which Christ was crucified. It is the left-hand (literally) part of the horizontal beam complete with nail hole. Originally unearthed in Jerusalem, it was taken here in the fifth century.
In the sixteenth century it was forged into a cross itself and inserted into a glass fronted silver gilted ornate case, the base of which has an opening so that pilgrims, on their way to Santiago de Compostela, could kiss the exposed wood.
The Forestry Research Institute in Madrid, examined a sample of the relic in 1958 found it to be Mediterranean Cypress wood, common to Palestine and that it might date older than 2,000 years. The last time I was here in 2012, a very helpful Fannciscan monk kindly removed the revered cross from the altar showcase for us to examine up close.
9 Potes
The picturesque market town of Potes in the Liebana valley is where the rivers Quiviesa and Deva join after their decent from the heights of the Picos de Europa. The town has the lowest rainfall in Cantabria, indeed bounded by a circle of mountains it enjoys a Mediterranean type microclimate suitable for cultivating walnuts, vine and from from grape skins they distill a drink called Marc (not unlike grappa in Italy or orujo in the rest of Cantabria) except here they might add sweeteners, herbs or spices like cinnamon. Don't leave without trying the heartiest of stews like Pote Liebanés or Cocido Montanés, chickpeas or white beans and a good helping of meat. Wash it all down with some wine or locally made cider.
10 Santander
Santander is the port city capital, a name probably most known for the huge banking group that originated here. Ships sail right up to the edge of town, they always have and in Spain's era of discovery they arrived back here with all that South American - Caribbean bounty, which no doubt explains apparent affluence and the rich banking connection.
It's right on the seafront, makes a reviving morning walk or a revitalizing evening one. It is not a big city so getting around on foot is easy and a tapas bar crawl is a wonderful and sometimes surprising way to spend an evening - I'll say no more, enjoy!
The 2014 ISAF Sailing World Championships will be hosted by Santander - September 8 - 21, 2014. Over 1,400 sailors and more than 1,000 boats representing 80 nations are expected to attend.
The events sailed and the equipment used in 2014 will be those selected for the 2016 Olympic Sailing Competition. www.sailing.org/2014-ISAF-Worlds.php
Travel File
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) fly direct from Dublin to Santander Airport, just 5km from the city of Santander and there is a bus every 30 minutes.
Where to stay
Picos de Europa:
La Casona de Cosgaya, Liébana (www.casonadecosgaya.com) a small 13 room hotel in a rustic15th-century house in the Picos de Europa mountains
Santander:
Hotel Santemar: just a few minutes from the long El Sardinero beach and close to Magdalena, the ancient residence of King Alfonso XIII.
Hotel Santemar, Calle Joaquín Costa, 28, 39005 Santander. www.hotelsantemar.com/en
Where to eat
Picos de Europa:
The Asador Llorente Restaurant C/ San Roque, 1, Planta
39570 Potes - Liébana. Cantabria www.liebanaypicosdeeuropa.com
Santander:
Restaurante El Serbal (The Rowan), Calle de Andrés del Río, 7, 39004 Santander, affordable Michelin Star dining ask about their tasting menu, or from the a la carte you could try grilled asparagus with prawns and cockles, beef tenderloin with foie gras ravioli. There is a choice of wonderful home-made breads, and then there's the the 300-plus wine list. www.elserbal.com
My favorite tapas experience was at Hijas de Florencio (Las), Santander. 23 Paseo de Pereda, Santander 39004. There's a great buzz about this atmospheric tapas bar, converted from a carpenter's shop, it has become a favorite with Santander locals for good wine, coffee and hearty tapas, like morcilla (black pudding), chorizo, ham, cecina(dark smoked beef) and cured pork loin.
For more about Cantabria:
www.turismodecantabria.com
www.cantur.com
www.turismocomillas.com
Car Hire online or at Santander Airport
Avis, www.avis.ie/CarHire/Europe/Spain/Santander/Santander-Parayas-Airport
Eurocar, www.europcar.ie/car-hire-SPAIN-SANTANDER.html
Hertz, www.hertz.ie/rentacar/misc/index.jsp?targetPage=IE_Car_Hire_Santander.jsp
It's right on the seafront, makes a reviving morning walk or a revitalizing evening one. It is not a big city so getting around on foot is easy and a tapas bar crawl is a wonderful and sometimes surprising way to spend an evening - I'll say no more, enjoy!
The 2014 ISAF Sailing World Championships will be hosted by Santander - September 8 - 21, 2014. Over 1,400 sailors and more than 1,000 boats representing 80 nations are expected to attend.
The events sailed and the equipment used in 2014 will be those selected for the 2016 Olympic Sailing Competition. www.sailing.org/2014-ISAF-Worlds.php
Ryanair (www.ryanair.com) fly direct from Dublin to Santander Airport, just 5km from the city of Santander and there is a bus every 30 minutes.
Where to stay
Picos de Europa:
La Casona de Cosgaya, Liébana (www.casonadecosgaya.com) a small 13 room hotel in a rustic15th-century house in the Picos de Europa mountains
Santander:
Hotel Santemar: just a few minutes from the long El Sardinero beach and close to Magdalena, the ancient residence of King Alfonso XIII.
Hotel Santemar, Calle Joaquín Costa, 28, 39005 Santander. www.hotelsantemar.com/en
Where to eat
Picos de Europa:
The Asador Llorente Restaurant C/ San Roque, 1, Planta
39570 Potes - Liébana. Cantabria www.liebanaypicosdeeuropa.com
Santander:
Restaurante El Serbal (The Rowan), Calle de Andrés del Río, 7, 39004 Santander, affordable Michelin Star dining ask about their tasting menu, or from the a la carte you could try grilled asparagus with prawns and cockles, beef tenderloin with foie gras ravioli. There is a choice of wonderful home-made breads, and then there's the the 300-plus wine list. www.elserbal.com
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| At Posada del Club de Calidad: Quesada Pasiega (pudding, typical of Cantabria). |
For more about Cantabria:
www.turismodecantabria.com
www.cantur.com
www.turismocomillas.com
Car Hire online or at Santander Airport
Avis, www.avis.ie/CarHire/Europe/Spain/Santander/Santander-Parayas-Airport
Eurocar, www.europcar.ie/car-hire-SPAIN-SANTANDER.html
Hertz, www.hertz.ie/rentacar/misc/index.jsp?targetPage=IE_Car_Hire_Santander.jsp